SPECIAL EDITION... Peru Amazon trip Pt. 1

From grim Lima to even grimmer Iquitos then to the Spectacular Amazon rain forest, this was a trip of contrasts.

Lima has a climatic problem, it never rains. Because of this, the place has a perpetually grubby air, as it never has a nice rain shower to wash away the dirt. Iquitos has a different set of difficulties, the place is miles away from anywhere, so it is the most expensive city in Peru. Transport and logistics make up a huge percentage of the price of goods. unfortunately the general population don't have much money to start with, so conditions seem grim to outsiders.

The Amazon on the other hand is holding its own, with slash and burn farming now illegal and tourism  playing a bigger part in the local economy. Unfortunately tourism brings its own set of problems, the biggest being that the act of observing a thing, changes the thing.

We went on a four day trip to the Amazon booked with a company called Explorama (I have no ties or obligations to this company, we just used and paid for their services). The company was started over 50 years ago and they have a laudable attitude to conservation and helping the local population. They have 3 lodges in the amazon at varying distances from Iquitos, transport to and from the lodges is by outboard powered launches. Ceiba Tops lodges are in a previously farmed area (secondary rainforest... recovering over the years,  but not a primary and unspoiled environment) and have Air conditioning, hot water, even a pool.

Every day, our personal tour guide took us on trips. these included fishing for piranhas (didn't catch any), trolling slowly down the middle of a tributary looking at local wildlife, walking through the ACTS canopy walkway, and walking through the jungle after dark. Spectacular is the most apt adjective for these few days, there was no adrenaline, no breathless build up, no stressful timetable, just an educated guy and a boat driver showing us things they obviously know and care about.

Traditional (for us anyway) foot and background photo.

No idea what these plants are called but it was most tranquil.

Black water tributary caused by more acidic conditions.

Taken at ACTS canopy walkway, he was just licking the berries then spitting them out.

Here we come to my slightly sad observation from earlier. In order for modern day tourists to feel comfortable in the middle of the rain forest, a few compromises have to be made. Where do you think the power comes from for the air conditioning and hot water? ... there are generators located away from the lodges where the noise won't bother anyone. How do they have internet access in the public areas? ... the cell phone tower is located behind the main lodge complex.

Also there are the same tourist traps you see all over the world, locals capture a local species, then show it off to shipped in tourists while saying it was rescued from some made up situation. By the way, please buy our artisan products (made locally, in a factory just down the road and available in all nearby tourist gift shops).

I know, I'm cynical, but I like to think I'm also aware of what it takes to show off an unspoiled wilderness, you have to spoil it a bit.